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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred establishments. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” states the family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest shop securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.